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Written by Countess du Ruel
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Monday, 28 July 2008 00:00 |
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Shock, horror, there's a new revolution in Paris. I just came back on the Eurostar, and this summer the impossible is happening, warns the Countess du Ruel. The French are eating Le Burger. In sidewalk cafes along the Saint Germain to elegant three star restaurants you are likely to find a juicy beef patty on a sesame bun. This outrage is the epitome of non-French-ness: informal and messy fast food.
Famous chefs are declaring it's not just a fad. And many renowned chefs are putting their own spin on it. You will find cornichons, fleur de sel and fresh thyme. Or maybe a wagyu beef patty seasoned with black ketchup made from blackberries and black currants. And you may pay a whopping great $56 for this privilege. At Alain Doucasse's Le Relais du Parc I enjoyed a burger of shrimp and squid for summer weather. Or there's the double patty with a slab of foie gras in between at Joel Robuchon's L'Atelier.
The frogs are gobbling it up. Last week at one prestige restaurant a third of customers ordered Les Burgers, outstripping Mediterannean dishes such as sea bass and confit.
Has the hamburger conquered Paris? Only time will tell. Personally, I doubt it.
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