Mrs M's London
Mrs M's London

Extraordinaire! We're in for a real treat with the 2009 Bordeaux, cheers Mrs M. Even before the grapes were picked, the 2009 vintage was heralded as the best taste in young wines of the last thirty years. This is saying something as the 2005 vintage has been touted for years as the new millesime.

The 2009 Bordeaux grapes were so delicious that they were being gobbled up off the vines.  According to Christian Moueix, who gives us one of the world's greatest red wines, Chateau Petrus, the smell of the fermenting 2009 was so beguiling that he brought a bottle of his estate's half-finished clarets home to drink every night. "The wines were so good, so soft, so charming, and so beautiful, I have not drunk new wine like that since 1982."

Primeurs Week, when the world fine wine merchants descend on Bordeaux, is rife this year with rumours of a great vintage. As a result more than 6000 merchants and journalists are there for the launch, 500 more than attended the last great Bordeaux vintage launch of 2005.  Sensational 2009 Bordeaux have been made everywhere.  It is called"powerful, gorgeous, rich violet-scented, crimson nectar...a classic." Well-heeled vintners who stand to gain or lose millions of euros are counting on the success of this magical vintage.  It is no without pitfalls, however.  Some grapes have been left hanging on the vines too long, resulting in big, black grapes that are too high in alcohol content; 15 or 16%, which is not the quality of restrained elegance of a great Bordeaux.  

Buyers must be wary of buying long in Bordeaux 2009.  These young, unproved vintages could cost a lot,  250 euros per bottle for the first growth, and 100 euros for the super-seconds.  These could easily double or triple in price.  With sterling's poor euro exchange rate a case could cost £2,500, so it's not everyone's buy, and even the sharpest buyers should proceed with caution.  The arrival of investors from China and Russia has helped to drive wines up in value.  New vintages put up for sale in Bordeaux can be a risky venture.  The top chateaux sold their 2007 for about 300 euros a bottle, even though it was mediocre.  Last year the average price fell to 150 euros.

The price of the 2009 will be largely determined by Robert Parker, the American ex-lawyer who is the world's most influential wine critic.  If he approves and agrees that the '09 is a crimson classic, the value will soar.  If not, it could remain close to last year's figure.

However, whatever Robert Parker decides, it sounds like the rest of us could profit from this vintage windfall with the young and cheaper wines.  When I was in Paris recently we enjoyed a young ‘09 Côte Rotie at a friend's house.  If that's any indication of what's in store...hurrah!  It was delicious.  I can't wait for more!

Bon Vin, Bon Vent!

— Mrs M


 

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